Part 3: Nakasendo Trail
- , by Tracey Emney
- 7 min reading time
Nakasendō Trail in Winter
The Nakasendō Trail is one of Japan’s most famous historic walking routes, stretching approximately 534 kilometres and once linking Kyoto with Tokyo through the mountains of central Honshu. Historically used by samurai, merchants and officials during the Edo period, the trail is now renowned for its preserved post towns and forested walking paths.
While most travellers walk sections of the Nakasendō Trail in spring or autumn, we chose to visit in early January and base ourselves in Kiso-Fukushima. Using this town as a hub for day walks and train trips proved to be an ideal approach for quieter winter conditions.
Kiso-Fukushima for a Winter Nakasendō Trip
The Kiso Valley can experience significant snowfall during winter, with snow depths being unpredictable from year to year. As we weren’t equipped for extended snow hiking, we decided against committing to multi-day point-to-point walks and instead chose a flexible base.
Kiso-Fukushima offered:
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Excellent rail and taxi access to key Nakasendō post towns
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Manageable walking sections suitable for winter
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Flexibility to adjust plans based on weather
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A quiet, local atmosphere far removed from Japan’s major cities
And, most importantly the food continued to live up to expectations in these more remotes parts of Japan. From simple dishes to thoughtfully prepared local specialities promoted on by locals to try, eating on the Nakasendō is as much a part of the experience as the walking itself - and it never disappoints.
Winter Travel Tip: Expect Early Restaurant Closures
One important thing to be aware of when visiting the Nakasendō Trail in January is that many shops and restaurants are closed or close early, particularly mid-week and outside peak tourist seasons.
When we arrived in Kiso-Fukushima around 5pm, we were told that all local restaurants were already closed for the evening and we were pointed to the supermarket. While this was initially unexpected, it turned into a highlight thanks to Japan’s excellent supermarkets.
Japanese Supermarkets: An Underrated Travel Essential
The local supermarket in Kiso-Fukushima was open and exceptionally well stocked. Like many supermarkets in Japan, it offered:
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Freshly made sushi and sashimi
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Bento boxes and rice dishes
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Salads and prepared foods
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Seasonal and regional specialities
We picked up a generous selection and enjoyed what felt like a restaurant-quality meal back in our accommodation. After a day of travel, it was the perfect solution and a reminder that Japanese supermarkets are part of the Japanese food experience. I could write a whole blog on the 7 Eleven's!
Supermarket takeaway in our traditional Ryokan. Sleeping on tatami mats in the background felt like a big kids sleepover.
Best Winter Walk on the Nakasendō: Magome to Tsumago
One of the most popular and accessible sections of the Nakasendō Trail is the Magome to Tsumago walk, which we completed as a day trip from Kiso-Fukushima.
In early January, the trail had a light dusting of snow, creating a spectacular winter landscape without making the path unsafe. The route passes through cedar forests, waterfalls and rural scenery before arriving in the beautifully preserved post town of Magome-juku. It was absolutely spectacular.
An added benefit of walking the Nakasendō Trail in winter is that bears in the region hibernate at this time of year, making it a safer season for hiking compared to warmer months.
Day Trip from Kiso-Fukushima: Narai-juku
Another excellent day trip from Kiso-Fukushima is Narai-juku, easily reached by train. Narai is one of the best-preserved post towns on the Nakasendō and stretches along a long, linear section of the historic highway.
In winter, Narai-juku is especially atmospheric, with snow-dusted rooftops, quiet streets and very few visitors. While many shops were closed, it’s an ideal place for a slow wander, photography and soaking up the historic atmosphere.
There was enough open to find some lunch, afternoon tea and warm drinks when required.
Things to Do in Kiso-Fukushima
Kiso-Fukushima itself is compact and easy to explore on foot.
One highlight for hikers is the open-air foot spa, located beside the Kiso River. Free to use and designed for weary walkers, it’s a welcome rest stop after a day on the trail — warm water, crisp mountain air and river views make it a memorable experience.
What to Eat in the Kiso Valley
The Kiso Valley is known for simple, hearty mountain cuisine, designed to sustain travellers in a cold climate. A regional speciality is soba noodles, made from buckwheat and typically served hot in winter or cold with dipping sauce in warmer months.
Meals in this region are unfussy, seasonal and deeply comforting - ideal after time outdoors. Importantly, the food feels designed not just for tourists, but to support the local community. As a result, dining in the Kiso Valley is consistently authentic, thoughtful and high quality.
Soba Noddles at Kurumaya in Kiso Fukushima (not gluten free)
Soba noodle you’ll find in Japan
Jūwari soba (十割そば) – 100% buckwheat (naturally gluten-free if made in a gluten-free environment)
Hachiwari soba (八割そば) – ~80% buckwheat, 20% wheat
Standard soba – often a much lower percentage of buckwheat
For gluten-free travellers
Even when soba is made from 100% buckwheat, cross-contamination is common in restaurants. For people with coeliac disease, soba is only safe if it is:
Clearly labelled gluten-free
Made from 100% buckwheat
Prepared in a gluten-controlled environment so you need to come prepared to ask questions.
Is Winter a Good Time to Walk the Nakasendō Trail?
For travellers seeking quiet trails, snowy scenery and a slower pace, winter can be an excellent time to walk the Nakasendō Trail - provided you plan carefully and keep abreast of the weather conditions.
By basing yourself in Kiso-Fukushima or another of the post towns, and choosing short walks and day trips, you can enjoy the best of the Nakasendō in winter without committing to multi day hikes.